South West France – The Dordogne

Founded in 1270, this medieval “Bastide” town is famous for its picturesque central square, ancient stone arches, and lively atmosphere. While it looks like a movie set, it is a working village with everything you need—from pharmacies and ATMs to excellent bistros. Whether you want to sip a café crème in the sun or buy fresh bread, this is your go-to spot.

Markets are a religion in the Dordogne. Eymet hosts two of the best:

• Thursday Morning (Year-Round): The traditional market. The entire town fills with stalls selling roast chickens, local cheeses, straw baskets, and antiques. Tip: Go before 10 am to beat the crowds.
• Tuesday Night (July & August only): The famous Marché Nocturne. The square is closed to cars and filled with long trestle tables and street food vendors. You buy your wine and food from the stalls and eat under the stars with live music. Tip: Arrive by 7 pm to grab a table—it gets busy!

Eat & Drink

The central square (Place de la Bastide) is lined with restaurants and cafes. It is the perfect place to watch the world go by.

• Morning: Grab a coffee and a croissant at one of the cafes facing the fountain.
• Lunch: Enjoy a Menu du Jour (usually great value) at the bistros under the arches.
• Dinner: From wood-fired pizza to fine French dining, the town comes alive at night.

While Eymet is a “bastide” (grid layout), Issigeac is circular, winding around its center like a snail shell. Stepping into this village feels like stepping back 500 years. The streets are narrow, and the ancient half-timbered houses twist and lean in a way that feels almost magical.

The Sunday Market (The Main Event)

If you do one thing outside the Chateau, make it this market.

• Sunday Morning Only: Issigeac hosts one of the most famous markets in the Dordogne (and was recently voted the best market in Aquitaine).
• The Experience: The market takes over the entire village. You will find artisanal cheeses, local sausages, handmade soaps, straw baskets, and fresh oysters being served on the street with white wine.
• Pro Tip: It gets incredibly popular. Arrive by 9:00 am to find parking and enjoy the stalls before the mid-morning rush.

Architecture & Atmosphere

Issigeac is unique because of its preservation.

• The Bishop’s Palace: The grand building in the center, built in the 17th century by the Bishops of Sarlat.
• Look Up: As you walk, look at the houses. Many feature intricate wood carvings and “corbels” (jutting upper floors) that nearly touch across the narrow streets.

Eat & Drink

• Sunday Lunch: After the market, the local restaurants spill out onto the pavement. It is a fantastic atmosphere, but booking a table in advance is essential on Sundays.
• Evening Calm: On other days of the week, the village is incredibly peaceful—perfect for a quiet evening stroll and a glass of wine in a shaded courtyard.

Sitting on the banks of the Dordogne River, Bergerac is larger than Eymet and offers a perfect mix of medieval charm and modern shopping. The town is split into two parts, but you will want to head straight for the Old Town (Vieille Ville) near the river.

The Old Town

The pedestrianized medieval quarter is a maze of half-timbered houses and cobblestone streets. It feels worlds away from the modern outskirts.

• Wander: Get lost in the narrow streets around Place Pélissière—it’s extremely photogenic.
• Shop: This is the best place for boutiques, antiques, and local crafts.
• See: You can’t miss the statue of Cyrano de Bergerac (and his famous nose) in the square.

Wine & Culture

Bergerac is the heart of the local wine region (often called the “Purple Périgord” because of the grapevines).

• Maison des Vins: Located in a stunning 17th-century cloister by the river, this is a must-visit. You can learn about the local appellations and often taste wines for free or a small fee.
• The Gabarres: Take a relaxing 50-minute boat trip on a traditional flat-bottomed barge (Gabarre) to see the town from the water.

Market Days

• Wednesday & Saturday Mornings: The market takes over the area around the church of Notre-Dame. It’s larger and more commercial than Eymet, offering everything from fresh truffles (in season) to clothes.
• The Covered Market: Open Tuesday to Saturday, offering high-quality meats, fish, and cheeses.

Eat & Drink

The Old Town is packed with restaurants.

• Lunch: Look for restaurants tucked away in the small squares for calm, al fresco dining.
• By the River: There are several spots along the quay where you can enjoy a glass of Monbazillac wine with a view of the Dordogne river.